12.29.2009

The Coolest Girl of 2009 (By Far...)


MTV is completely whack for cancelling "It's On with Alexa Chung." As a replacement for TRL, it was totally of the youth, fresh feeling, and exciting. Amongst other new programs like Teen Mom and Jersey Shore, It's On was the shining light of its crappy roster. It had relevant, fun guests and even included, shocking, musical performances! I now truly believe that MTV is over and the awesomeness it once was is long a memory. Vogue Magazine names Alexa best dressed of the year just as her show airs its last live episode. Ironic world.

At least the year was filled with her Ah-mazing wardrobe on Mondays through Fridays. She is just so freakin' cool! Her energy is infectious, and her look--sometimes rock, sometimes grunge, sometimes sweet--always ingenue... Always On.
Here's just a small glimpse into the greatness she brought into American living rooms daily on her show. Hopefully, some other network will recognize this great opportunity and give her a contract. And they should pay her the extra money that they will save on a show stylist so she can acquire more Ah-mazing articles of clothing and wear them. Yes.

Can You Keep Up with Fashion?

So, I go to fashion school and I like to write about fashion... But there is NEVER enough time to keep up with it. Yes, I'll even admit it. I have just barely finished perusing the last bit of collections from FW Spring 2010, and Pre-Fall has been up on STYLE.COM for weeks now. I'm uber-disappointed that I'm so far behind... but it really makes me think, too.

All quarter long, my boss at the Drexel Historic Costume Collection (Clare) and I have been discussing Fashion with a big "F" vs. fashion with a small "f", and which is more important, and why. (More to come on this in the future.) When coupling the innumerable things I have learned from Clare with the fast-paced nature of the fashion industry, I have come to believe that the trick is not "keeping up" with fashion as much as it is understanding it's completely transient nature.

I say: Allow it to roll by you, and somewhere in it's tumbles add something of yourself into it.

This statement helps me justify my inability to frequently blog.

And then there's the fact that all quarter long in school I'm in the process of thinking and researching and creating and then the quarter is over and I can barely comprehend all the work I've done. Then you sit down and look at it all and feel... accomplished.





So this is some of what I have done this quarter while not blogging. And I completely could not keep up! Oh the joys of what the future holds and how much harder school will be. (Now, as always, click on any slide to enlarge.)

9.15.2009

I am Proud to be a Paper Bag Princess





The W shoot was by Craig McDean and the story book was written by Robert Munsch and illustrated by Michael Martchenko. 

OMG I Just DIED a Little Bit...





I have always loved Donna as one of my all-time favorite designers, as she just perfectly understands that New York Look, lax yet undeniably chic, but this time she killed it... and me a little bit. This collection is possibly the best of her career, dare I say, and I think it will be hard for anyone to top it within the next few days of NYFW. Ooooh I can't wait to see what Francisco Costa is going to show. It's the most wonderful time of the year!!!

7.17.2009

First Glimpse...



... of moi! I was, ahem, completely humbled when an instructor of mine told me I wasn't good enough for the Master's Program I'd been accepted to as a Dean's Fellow and attending for eight months. Illustrator, am I none, and I never pretended to be. Straightly cutting things, paper, has been a weakness since Kindergarten, but; I am the first to admit it. I've never pretended not to be someone who's better at talking about fashion, expressing sartorial feelings. The degree to me will be the knowledge of the gears, the rhythm of the ticking, of the big, old clock that is capital-F Fashion. 
Anyhow, now that I've tied a bow around that miserable experience of the past, I can say that at least I know that I get it. Just finished reading the September Issue of Elle, and they showcased emerging designers with stories of warriors, buttressed by an air of the future. My vision began as a post-apocalyptic one; I had just seen Disney's WALL-E and was actually touched. Inspired. The animated film contained the most rich metallics and strong brights, and there was something so oddly beautiful about the way the piles and piles of trash/scrap patch-worked themselves together on my HDTV. My professor didn't understand the term "post-apocalyptic," and steered me in the direction of Xena Warrior Princess. Whatever. 
Gratefully, I am no longer bitter about that whole experience. And I am proud of this work, even if she thinks it sucks, and I don't like the way she made me do it. 

7.09.2009

Couture La La / Fall 2009

Armani's collections always remind me of a siren movie star, and the quality and sleekness of his work is unarguable. This time, his muse was a Natalie Imbruglia type, which I found added a very modern appeal to his 40's theme. 

At Valentino, the former accessories team of Pier Paulo Piccioli & Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a valiant showing, noticeably refraining from the label's signature color, red, and even pinks. After the design team's second couture collection of lacy black numbers with hints of silver, I wonder if they will last for another season? While they certainly have the backing of house creator Valentino Garavani, who worked alongside them for years. He trusts that they will draw upon the house's vast archives for inspiration, unlike poor fashion lamb Alessandra Facchinetti, who was ousted after the showings of three collections (and found out through the papers). First Gucci, then Valentino... ouch.

Christian Lacroix's presentation was one of uncertainty for the future. That being said, he stuck to plain, somber colors, in hopes that people would find the line somewhat marketable and buyable. Then there was his trademark bride to end... in all the Lacroix glory, regal and unforgettable as ever. 




Is it possible that less is more for John Galliano at Dior?!! In an homage to the presentations of the house of Dior's past, Galliano showed brilliant and bold colors and shapes, as always, in a classic white setting, which allowed his creations to pop against the contrasting natural flowers and plain undergarments. 

It reminded me of one of my favorite Galliano for Dior pieces: the dress worn by Kate Moss as she accepted her CFDA award, and I was pleased to see him revisit this idea.


I was totally taken aback by the simplicity of this showing, and agree with Style.com's assessment that Galliano was right on the money by "reemphasizing house values," especially when those values are pretty much perfect and timeless.

Karl Lagerfeld shows off his talent for fanciful and whimsy nowhere better than in the couture arena. This season, nothing is different. The four looks highlighted above show the distinct range of moods he is able to present within one concise collection. Although it will forever be hard for him to top himself, especially last January's "white collection" (more on that to follow), his iconic creations are the dreams of fashion lovers all over the world. 


Ricardo Tisci's output for Givenchy is unreal. I don't know if any other designer can blend the world of futurism with so many different inspirations from history's past as successfully as he. This season there were tribal and Morrocan influences alongside sci-fi princess warrior references. And there was, of course, Mariacarla Boscono in a sculpted, strapless wedding dress with a sheath hinting at houndstooth. 


Jean Paul Gauliter highlighted the movies stars of the past as ideas for his collection, mixing sexiness of the Bardot style up with clothing that seemed thoroughly modern. 





So perhaps the controversy of the couture season was Elie Saab's show, which I, personally, found to be breathtakingly beautiful. However, I, along with the rest of the fashion world, can't help but to wonder what the man was thinking staging the all white show in the exact same venue that Karl Lagerfeld did at Chanel the last couture time around.

I think that all couturiers should now rotate seasons and use these two men's idea as an excercise in detail, precision, and beauty without flashiness in their own personal all-white collections. A Galliano all-white next year, and  an Armani all-white for the following show, etc., etc. 

Alber Elbaz's Mexican Holiday


I can never have an outlook on a season without first seeing what Alber Elbaz has put out there on the runway. His women are usually small looking, empowered by the strength and beauty of their attire. The looks he creates are, in my opinion, just perfect. For Resort 2010, our first peak into the fashions of the new year, Alber Elbaz lightens up the economic tone a bit with bold extras and bright baubles, as per usual. But he manages to keep the clothes pretty basic, relaxed and comfortable. This is vacation, after all! 

I find Alber Elbaz to be a very smart and humorous man this season, because the vibe I get from his collection is very El Dia de los Muertos. Though we are economically dead or dying, we can still celebrate! I totally love it. 

I love his use of a very graphic, subdued colored floral here for the upcoming resort season. It's playful and practical at the same time, as was most of his collection. The colors of the clothing were more of a somber set of neutrals (besides the aforementioned floral and a couple of sparkly, shimmery numbers), while the accessories screamed of multiple bright colors. 

It reminds me of one of my favorite restaurants/spots in Northern Liberties, Philadelphia, North Third. The inside of the place is dark with a sparing, red glow of light. On every inch of every shelf, every corner of the ceiling, a massive collection of Day-of-the-Dead-type chotskies and art work tantalize the eye. That's probably as far as I'll be vacationing this season!

7.07.2009

Style Icon: Michael Jackson

Yes, since Michael Jackson died, everyone has been saying what an amazing icon he was; and I agree. Though this blog is not original, it is definitely heart-felt and sincere. On the morning of his death, I listened to Thriller as I walked to the train station. Finally settling on a song on my ipod's shuffle setting, I knew the energy transferred through Michael Jackson's music was sure to start the day off right. 


Over and over again through the past couple of years, Michael's influence was everywhere. Though his performances and new releases had faded out of the Billboard spotlight, he remained at the forefront of the music scene. My Art History professor would say of the Italian Renaissance that everyone was "trying to out Michaelangelo Michaelangelo," and the same was true of the new rebirth of pop. Everyone was just trying to out Michael Jackson Michael Jackson. 

One of my first memories of this evidence was when he joined N'Sync on stage at the 2001 MTV Music Video Awards. Then even more so with Justin Timberlake's solo career and specifically the song "Rock Your Body." The dance moves of Chris Brown, and everybody else for that matter. And most recently in Christophe Decarnin's Spring and Fall 2009 Collections for Balmain. Jackson himself approved of the collections, wearing a sparkly, animal print tee from fall ready-to-wear not too long ago. 






I guess my favorite of his looks is the band or military style jacket. Although all of his jackets were tres tres cool.


I am also a fan of the Black & White. A strong person and personality can pull this off with ease. 

6.20.2009

Revolutionary Road

Yesterday, I finally watched Revolutionary Road. Kate Winslet deserved every accolade received for this; she was utterly amazing in the role of April Wheeler, and inspiringly beautiful, as well. 

April Wheeler is a housewife in the suburbs of 1950's America. She is stunning in this middle-class kind of way. In one of the movie's first scenes, April is at a party, shown in profile smoking a cigarette in a black dress and red lipstick. The scene sets the tone for the glamour that is to follow. Despite the weight and severity of the film's subject matter, Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio positively light up the screen in each scene with their angelic, easy style. 


Other great wardrobe styling included the scene where April lays on the bed, leafing through old photographs wearing a plain, men's white tee-shirt, embodying, I imagine, a husband's dream, along with April's beach attire of a men's blue oxford button-down, tied at the waist with white shorts and pulled back hair. The stylist on this film did such a great job actually expressing who these characters were through what they were wearing. 

6.10.2009

The Best Makeup Tips I Ever Got...





Nives’ Beauty Secrets
(previously posted on phillystylemag.com; before the Niche Media takeover)
When I went to meet Nives Riddles at Rescue Spa, I was eager to ask her all about how I could update my makeup for this season’s trends. Instead, Nives taught me perhaps one of life’s most important lessons: Trends may be fit for clothing sometimes, but never are they appropriate for your face. 
Makeup is all about what’s right for you.
If you don’t have much time to apply makeup in the morning, Nives recommends feigning a flawless complexion before attending to your eyes, cheeks, or lips. To pull this off, pick an oil-free foundation and apply it with a brush, in small strokes, from your hairline down to your neck. Blending is, obviously, of the utmost importance, and the smaller the brush you use, the easier you’ll find this task. While applying Chantecaille’s “Future Skin” gel foundation (pictured above) to my face, Nives noted that often times, people use foundation in the same way they use cover up, when it is only intended to even out your skin tone.
Concealer should be applied with a tiny brush, almost as if your face was made of pixels. If you take your time and apply precisely, you’ll be as amazed as I was: my skin never appeared so close to perfect, despite that I was amidst a minor breakout. Even when I replicated Nives’ movements at home, the difference remained noticeably clear.
Think of your foundation as a spongy base that absorbs all the color you want to apply. With that in mind, you should be gently pressing your colored brushes into your base, not swooping or painting them.
For that rosy, energetic and youthful glow, Nives recommends a pink cream blush for the apples of your cheeks, carefully blended until it looks au natural, as if you’ve caught a bit of a sun. If you choose to wear a bronzer, don’t use it all over your face like you would a loose powder. Instead, use it to highlight certain features, like your forehead and right above your lips. Avoid orangey-skin by using a high-quality bronzer, like Chantecaille’s, available in different shades at Rescue.
For dramatic, but not over-the-top eyes, Nives picked out a lavender eye shadow, that she said was made for my auburn hair and fair skin, and applied it in small dabs all over my lid. (Be sure to use an extra base on your eyelid to avoid creasing.) Ed Note: Lavender looks great on all skin tones and hair colors because its hue helps to brighten the eyes!
On the top lid, she applied black Blinc's liquid liner in small, feather-like strokes. It’s genius formula allows it to slide right off of your eye in the shower, so you won’t have to fight with eye makeup removers any longer. For the inside of the bottom lid, Nives added a bit of glitz with Diane Brill’s eyelining pencil. The gold tint to the color is perfect for evenings.
After curling my lashes with an electric wand, Nives let me in on another insider tip: False eyelashes, ladies! They’re cheap, disposable, and easier to put on than mascara. Grab a few pair to keep in your vanity and wear them any time you hit the town to look super glam.
Hold the lashes up to your face to see if you’ll need to trim the length. Lightly spread an adhesive (Nives recommends Ardell) over the base of the lash and wait for about 25 seconds. Wait too little, the glue will still be runny and it wont’ stick to your eye; wait too long, and the glue will already be drying. Put it on as close to the your real lashes as possible. Hold it in place for a few seconds, pressing it firmly. To completely disguise them, add more liner after the glue has dried, and follow with mascara, blending your lashes with the false set.
To finish your runway-ready face, set with a loose powder, using a brush to gently press into your skin, or lightly dab. But be patient; sweeping movements will erase all of your hard work up to this point! And one last pro tip: Use a clean brush to remove any makeup that might have settled underneath the eyebrow during the entire application, then keep them in place with a clear gel.
Lastly, glide on a lip gloss in a natural pink, and you’re ready to hit the city!

5.31.2009

W Magazine's L'Apres Midi




There is just an absolutely gorgeous photo shoot in the June 2009 issue of W, which is not surprising, but extremely pleasant. It's titled L'Apres Midi, and features the lazy beauties lounging in front of floral backgrounds. 


Styled by:
Alex White
Photographed by:
Claudia Knoepfel & Stefan Indlekofer



It would be great to wear these clothes, albeit it more of them than shown, on the streets of Manhattan on a early August evening. Thanks, W, for such a beautiful shoot. 

Thanks, Again, Mom



I guess, in the end, it's clear that my love of fashion began with Sunday shopping trips in the mall with Mom.

When I went to my first fashion show, Betsey Johnson, I sat by myself, thinking of how my mom used to love Betsey in the 70's. She bought her clothes from a store called Alley Cat, and while the store and the clothes are long gone, the thick and sturdy plastic hanger stamped with the store's name still hangs in my closet. And I can feel the love she had for those clothes still emanating off the hanger; it's a feeling that I can reciprocate. 

No matter how much my sense of style evolves, how many years I've grown older, my mother still knows exactly what I should be wearing. She knows me more than me. 


So it's always a treat when she calls me, debating whether or not to pick up something she thinks I need to have. This week, it's a gorgeous Calvin Klein  sundress. For a season I usually see right through in jeans and a v-neck t-shirt (every single day, without so much as one trip to the beach), it's as if she's telling me, "Enjoy  the sunshine! Get a freakin' tan! Try some color on for a change!"

"Get some lowlights," she added, of my long, curly, auburn hair, "and this apricot will be beautiful on you." 

Considering the majority of dresses I buy myself are black, this occasion is an especially delightful summer treat. A sweetheart neckline and multiple construction details on the bodice are sure to flatter the upper body. But the softly pleated skirt and deep pockets are what make this dress ooze the ease of a lazy summer day.

To style: a chunky bangle bracelet and probably a flat gladiator of some sort.  Down and natural for the hair, or; up in a loose, high, bun. That's really all the would be needed. 

Of course, this sateen dress is classic enough to wear formally, as well. Even though it's a solid color, I would still pick shoes of the more simple, very high variety. 

Mine cost $50.00, but you can get one at Overstock.com for $79.99. Zappo's has a magenta one for $133.80. So for the bargain, thanks, again, Mom.