7.17.2009

First Glimpse...



... of moi! I was, ahem, completely humbled when an instructor of mine told me I wasn't good enough for the Master's Program I'd been accepted to as a Dean's Fellow and attending for eight months. Illustrator, am I none, and I never pretended to be. Straightly cutting things, paper, has been a weakness since Kindergarten, but; I am the first to admit it. I've never pretended not to be someone who's better at talking about fashion, expressing sartorial feelings. The degree to me will be the knowledge of the gears, the rhythm of the ticking, of the big, old clock that is capital-F Fashion. 
Anyhow, now that I've tied a bow around that miserable experience of the past, I can say that at least I know that I get it. Just finished reading the September Issue of Elle, and they showcased emerging designers with stories of warriors, buttressed by an air of the future. My vision began as a post-apocalyptic one; I had just seen Disney's WALL-E and was actually touched. Inspired. The animated film contained the most rich metallics and strong brights, and there was something so oddly beautiful about the way the piles and piles of trash/scrap patch-worked themselves together on my HDTV. My professor didn't understand the term "post-apocalyptic," and steered me in the direction of Xena Warrior Princess. Whatever. 
Gratefully, I am no longer bitter about that whole experience. And I am proud of this work, even if she thinks it sucks, and I don't like the way she made me do it. 

7.09.2009

Couture La La / Fall 2009

Armani's collections always remind me of a siren movie star, and the quality and sleekness of his work is unarguable. This time, his muse was a Natalie Imbruglia type, which I found added a very modern appeal to his 40's theme. 

At Valentino, the former accessories team of Pier Paulo Piccioli & Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a valiant showing, noticeably refraining from the label's signature color, red, and even pinks. After the design team's second couture collection of lacy black numbers with hints of silver, I wonder if they will last for another season? While they certainly have the backing of house creator Valentino Garavani, who worked alongside them for years. He trusts that they will draw upon the house's vast archives for inspiration, unlike poor fashion lamb Alessandra Facchinetti, who was ousted after the showings of three collections (and found out through the papers). First Gucci, then Valentino... ouch.

Christian Lacroix's presentation was one of uncertainty for the future. That being said, he stuck to plain, somber colors, in hopes that people would find the line somewhat marketable and buyable. Then there was his trademark bride to end... in all the Lacroix glory, regal and unforgettable as ever. 




Is it possible that less is more for John Galliano at Dior?!! In an homage to the presentations of the house of Dior's past, Galliano showed brilliant and bold colors and shapes, as always, in a classic white setting, which allowed his creations to pop against the contrasting natural flowers and plain undergarments. 

It reminded me of one of my favorite Galliano for Dior pieces: the dress worn by Kate Moss as she accepted her CFDA award, and I was pleased to see him revisit this idea.


I was totally taken aback by the simplicity of this showing, and agree with Style.com's assessment that Galliano was right on the money by "reemphasizing house values," especially when those values are pretty much perfect and timeless.

Karl Lagerfeld shows off his talent for fanciful and whimsy nowhere better than in the couture arena. This season, nothing is different. The four looks highlighted above show the distinct range of moods he is able to present within one concise collection. Although it will forever be hard for him to top himself, especially last January's "white collection" (more on that to follow), his iconic creations are the dreams of fashion lovers all over the world. 


Ricardo Tisci's output for Givenchy is unreal. I don't know if any other designer can blend the world of futurism with so many different inspirations from history's past as successfully as he. This season there were tribal and Morrocan influences alongside sci-fi princess warrior references. And there was, of course, Mariacarla Boscono in a sculpted, strapless wedding dress with a sheath hinting at houndstooth. 


Jean Paul Gauliter highlighted the movies stars of the past as ideas for his collection, mixing sexiness of the Bardot style up with clothing that seemed thoroughly modern. 





So perhaps the controversy of the couture season was Elie Saab's show, which I, personally, found to be breathtakingly beautiful. However, I, along with the rest of the fashion world, can't help but to wonder what the man was thinking staging the all white show in the exact same venue that Karl Lagerfeld did at Chanel the last couture time around.

I think that all couturiers should now rotate seasons and use these two men's idea as an excercise in detail, precision, and beauty without flashiness in their own personal all-white collections. A Galliano all-white next year, and  an Armani all-white for the following show, etc., etc. 

Alber Elbaz's Mexican Holiday


I can never have an outlook on a season without first seeing what Alber Elbaz has put out there on the runway. His women are usually small looking, empowered by the strength and beauty of their attire. The looks he creates are, in my opinion, just perfect. For Resort 2010, our first peak into the fashions of the new year, Alber Elbaz lightens up the economic tone a bit with bold extras and bright baubles, as per usual. But he manages to keep the clothes pretty basic, relaxed and comfortable. This is vacation, after all! 

I find Alber Elbaz to be a very smart and humorous man this season, because the vibe I get from his collection is very El Dia de los Muertos. Though we are economically dead or dying, we can still celebrate! I totally love it. 

I love his use of a very graphic, subdued colored floral here for the upcoming resort season. It's playful and practical at the same time, as was most of his collection. The colors of the clothing were more of a somber set of neutrals (besides the aforementioned floral and a couple of sparkly, shimmery numbers), while the accessories screamed of multiple bright colors. 

It reminds me of one of my favorite restaurants/spots in Northern Liberties, Philadelphia, North Third. The inside of the place is dark with a sparing, red glow of light. On every inch of every shelf, every corner of the ceiling, a massive collection of Day-of-the-Dead-type chotskies and art work tantalize the eye. That's probably as far as I'll be vacationing this season!

7.07.2009

Style Icon: Michael Jackson

Yes, since Michael Jackson died, everyone has been saying what an amazing icon he was; and I agree. Though this blog is not original, it is definitely heart-felt and sincere. On the morning of his death, I listened to Thriller as I walked to the train station. Finally settling on a song on my ipod's shuffle setting, I knew the energy transferred through Michael Jackson's music was sure to start the day off right. 


Over and over again through the past couple of years, Michael's influence was everywhere. Though his performances and new releases had faded out of the Billboard spotlight, he remained at the forefront of the music scene. My Art History professor would say of the Italian Renaissance that everyone was "trying to out Michaelangelo Michaelangelo," and the same was true of the new rebirth of pop. Everyone was just trying to out Michael Jackson Michael Jackson. 

One of my first memories of this evidence was when he joined N'Sync on stage at the 2001 MTV Music Video Awards. Then even more so with Justin Timberlake's solo career and specifically the song "Rock Your Body." The dance moves of Chris Brown, and everybody else for that matter. And most recently in Christophe Decarnin's Spring and Fall 2009 Collections for Balmain. Jackson himself approved of the collections, wearing a sparkly, animal print tee from fall ready-to-wear not too long ago. 






I guess my favorite of his looks is the band or military style jacket. Although all of his jackets were tres tres cool.


I am also a fan of the Black & White. A strong person and personality can pull this off with ease.