
Armani's collections always remind me of a siren movie star, and the quality and sleekness of his work is unarguable. This time, his muse was a Natalie Imbruglia type, which I found added a very modern appeal to his 40's theme.

At Valentino, the former accessories team of Pier Paulo Piccioli & Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a valiant showing, noticeably refraining from the label's signature color, red, and even pinks. After the design team's second couture collection of lacy black numbers with hints of silver, I wonder if they will last for another season? While they certainly have the backing of house creator Valentino Garavani, who worked alongside them for years. He trusts that they will draw upon the house's vast archives for inspiration, unlike poor fashion lamb Alessandra Facchinetti, who was ousted after the showings of three collections (and found out through the papers). First Gucci, then Valentino... ouch.

Christian Lacroix's presentation was one of uncertainty for the future. That being said, he stuck to plain, somber colors, in hopes that people would find the line somewhat marketable and buyable. Then there was his trademark bride to end... in all the Lacroix glory, regal and unforgettable as ever.



Is it
possible that less is more for John Galliano at Dior?!! In an homage to the presentations of the house of Dior's past, Galliano showed brilliant and bold colors and shapes, as always, in a classic white setting, which allowed his creations to pop against the contrasting natural flowers and plain undergarments.
It reminded me of one of my favorite Galliano for Dior pieces: the dress worn by Kate Moss as she accepted her CFDA award, and I was pleased to see him revisit this idea.

I was totally taken aback by the simplicity of this showing, and agree with
Style.com's assessment that Galliano was right on the money by "reemphasizing house values," especially when those values are pretty much perfect and timeless.

Karl Lagerfeld shows off his talent for fanciful and whimsy nowhere better than in the couture arena. This season, nothing is different. The four looks highlighted above show the distinct range of moods he is able to present within one concise collection. Although it will forever be hard for him to top himself, especially last January's "white collection" (more on that to follow), his iconic creations are the dreams of fashion lovers all over the world.


Ricardo Tisci's output for Givenchy is unreal. I don't know if any other designer can blend the world of futurism with so many different inspirations from history's past as successfully as he. This season there were tribal and Morrocan influences alongside sci-fi princess warrior references. And there was, of course, Mariacarla Boscono in a sculpted, strapless wedding dress with a sheath hinting at houndstooth.

I think that all couturiers should now rotate seasons and use these two men's idea as an excercise in detail, precision, and beauty without flashiness in their own personal all-white collections. A Galliano all-white next year, and an Armani all-white for the following show, etc., etc.